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May so far in the Forces-of-Nature Diaries
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4th October 2012
Hiking - Walking: Cucugnan & Gorges de Galamus
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Weather: hot and sunny :)
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Wednesday 3rd October – relaxing a little travelling then walk and sightseeing – hot and sunny :)

Another gorgeous start to the day and we made the most of our great spot on the etang and did our exercises, washed hair and sorted the van out all outside. There was a bi-plane flying over really low and spraying the water or weed at the edges of the etang but we don’t know why??? Perhaps it was to get rid of mozzies?? No fishermen today but a big group of walkers who did warm up exercises round the corner then all streamed past the van looking like they were on a mission! We had our breakfast then packed up and drove off, only to see the walkers coming back to the car park so they hadn’t been far! Went to Lidl to do a fairly major shop and get stocked up for the next few days. All good stuff as usual but as they don’t do bread (yet – they have cleared an area for a boulangerie) Mag nipped into the Intermarche while I went to McD’s for internet. The queues in both were horrendous – Mag persevered in the shop but gave up in McD because we weren’t that desperate to pay for a coffee! So we had an hour in there for nothing to check the weather, bank and facebook. There isn’t any wind forecast until next Wednesday!!! :( We left there and travelled up into the Corbieres and I spied a lovely little river by a submersible bridge for us to have lunch. We sat right in the middle of the bridge and watched the fish and fed them bits of French bread. As we sat watching the little fish an eel appeared from under a rock, grabbed a piece of bread and shot back! Then another one appeared from a hole a bit further over. They were fascinating :) I decided to clean the van because after the storm and the muddy tracks we have been down it did look a sorry state! He washed and Mag leathered with water from the river. Left there and carried on through spectacular scenery especially as the vines are beginning to turn beautiful autumn colours. The backdrop of the hills and the blue sky made it a stunning journey :) We saw a castle up on one of the hills and followed the signs to the Chateau d’Aguilar which is near Tuchan. We have driven along this road before but never stopped at the Chateau. We wound our way up the approach road, stopping to take photos on the way up then when we got to the top there was a kiosk and they wanted 3.50 Euros each to go round the ruin so we turned round and left! We stopped about half a mile down the road in a lay-by with wonderful views of the Corbieres and over to Pic du Canigou where we were in June :) We originally stopped for a cuppa but decided to stay here tonight so sorted the van out and relaxed for an hour or so. Walked up to the castle about 6.30 and were able to walk to the top and into the ruins for nothing! It is a pretty good ruin – lots of turrets, arrow slits and steps left from the original 13th century castle built to guard the gorge from Spanish attack (Mag read that section in the book!) We spent a good hour up there then wandered back to have pork steaks for tea :) Didn’t meet up with Peter as he was meeting a friend from Tarifa. Texted him later saying we were exploring the Corbieres for a few days.


Thursday 4th October – walking **** Cucugnan & Gorges de Galamus – sunny and warm :)

A beautiful day and a gorgeous view to wake up to on the road up to Chat de L’ Aguilar :) We stayed at our spot under the castle until 12 reading and relaxing then drove along the most beautiful roads full of vines, cliffs and gorges until we came to Cucugnan. We could see a windmill and decided to have a look round. It was a really pretty village and the mill at the top is still working (when it’s windy!) and there is a boulangerie next door selling bread made from their own flour. Mag had only got 1.50 Euros in her pocket so the lady cut her a hunk off a large loaf :) Back in the van to drive past the castles of Queribus and Peyrepertuse which we have visited before. They are very impressive high up on the cliffs with Peyrepertuse looking more like part of the cliff than the castle! Got to the Gorges of Galamus where we have been before but are amazing so we wanted to have another look. We knew there was a lovely pool with big chub swimming on the surface just down from the first car park so we took our lunch down there and shared our picnic with the fish, they had bread,cheese and ham!!! Came back to the van when the sun had gone from the gorge and had a rest. Walked the length of the gorges road which is unbelievably narrow and clings to the side of the cliff at a great height above the river. I took some photos and as usual Mag thought I was going to disappear over the edge!! There is even a chapel built into the cliff. We walked down to that last time so didn’t do that this time. Spoke to an English man who was thinking of buying a camper like ours then walked back. Couldn’t believe our eyes when we saw a rescue helicopter fly through the gorge! Staying here tonight so got sorted out and had couscous and left over’s for tea.

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